Shoe fitting



Sept. 12, 1961 H. v. s. MOTT 2,999,256

SHOE FITTING Filed Nov. 27, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 IN V EN TOR.

BY g /d iw Sept. 12, 1961 H. v. s. MOTT 2,999,256

SHOE FITTING Filed Nov. 27, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 F g INVENTOR.

WH'SW BY HOWARD M3. M0 T United States atnt 2,999,256 SHOE FITTING Howard V. S. Mott, Stuart, Okla. (Southwest City, Mo.) Filed Nov. 27, 1959, Ser. No. 855,943 7 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) This invention is co-pending with Serial No. 689,728; filed October 11, 1957; which issued as Patent No. 2,928,110 on March 15, 1960, and relates to manufacturing shoes by any method, basic to the scalene triangular shapes of the foot arches and having adequate toe space, and particularly providing an improved arch width grade to all shoe making elements to natural various arch widths of feet, which are in composite arrangement with the arch size (lengths) and constant arch apex dimension within the overall (heel to toe) footwear lengths, for improved fitting qualities of shoes to feet.

In the prior art shoe making elements to fit feet are proportioned, graded, sized and fitted from the standard chart of last measurements adopted in 1887, which is directly based on and related to the overall (heel to toe) foot length theory established 6 centuries ago. The various widths of lasts and shoes, to which the insole pattern is related, are determined from a Ball girth measurement applied to lasts, and alphabetically designated, which indicates some relationship between the Ball girth measure ments to the sizes (overall, heel to toe tip) length of a last. The Ball girth measurements determining widths, is taken by tape measurement positioned from where ever the inner ball may be positioned, transversely to the imaginary central overall last line, to a position laterally somewhere along the length of the fifth toe. For example, mens shoe, size 6 is /3 inches long; size 7 is 10 /3 inches long; and the Ball girth (width) of a 6B is 8 inches; and the 6A is 7% inches in girth. An A width is wider than an AA width by inch, and the B width is wider than the A width by A inch in a given size. Which is -a ratio of 16 diiferent widths per one inch variation of actual foot Widths, some makers use ,3 inch between widths on the same principle. These theories and grading principles for sizes and widths of shoes to fit feet are subject to serious faults, becoming apparent from the following discussion and study of the appended drawmgs.

These two theories of /3 inch added to overall (heel to toe) last length for sizes, and 4 inch added to the Ball girth for the various widths, particularly as positioned and graded, fail to recognize nor provide proper shape and dimensions of footwear to the natural anatomical triangular shape and various dimensions and function of the foot arches, within the overall (heel to toe) foot length and have adequate toe space, forwardly from arch size (length); the arch width dimensions and area of arch apexity. Due to disproportions between shoes as previously made and a foot after some use the shoe upper material loses its original shape, stretches to or over the edge of the outer sole, from natural triangular shape of the foot arches and function of body weight distribution, at the areas of arch size, arch width and arch apexity, causing harmful pressures to feet from footwear.

In accordance with this invention insoles, lasts and shoes made therefrom by any method, are primarilly constructed with dimensions and shapes delineated between easily recognized natural honey landmarks of arch triangularity and size graded and width graded thereto and having a constant arch apex dimension with adequate toe space, and appropriate heel contour. I have ascertained from numerous X-ray measurements of feet, positioned in an angle of 90 degrees having opaque related measuring means at right angles and parallel with the long arm of ice the angle, the honey contour is of a scalene triangular shape, resulting from the particular shapes and arrangement of the 12 bones forming the arches, 7 tarsal and 5 metatarsal bones; the 14 phalanges forming the toes, add length forward from the heads (distal ends) of the 5 metatarsal bones, of the inner and outer longitudinal arches. The toes do not receive nor distribute body weight and force to the ground nor shoe insole; for in normal walking the heel is raised from the ground and total body force is distributed to the distal ends of both longitudinal arches, and the toes are parallel with the ground or shoe insole, causing a vertically hinge-like motion at the areas of natural arch size (length), arch Width and arch apexity. In different groups of feet of equal overall (heel to toe) length there are very substantial natural variations of arch lengths (sizes), arch widths and arch apexity, as defined within those different nominal foot length groups. Due to the scalene triangularity, a natural variation in one dimension affects the dimension and angularity of the others; for example, arch size (length) may be long or short, therefore the toes are short, medium or long to the foot length in a group; or the arch apexity may be greater in some feet than others, resulting in a diiference of the finite arch width dimension, although the feet are of equal overall length and width; also the difference between narrow and wider feet in a group, affects the obliquity of arch width, to the straight natural inner foot border, although the arch apexity is the same.

To facilitate discussion and understanding of gross foot anatomy certain new terms in this invention are defined:

Arch Size (Length)is the dimension taken at right angles between the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads (distal ends) of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to the measuring increments along the long arm of the degree angle, then measuring the distance between these two locii on the long arm to the vertex of the 90 degree angle. These two points represent the distal ends of the two (inner and outer) longitudinal arches.

Arch Width (Width)is the dimension taken between the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head (distal end) of the first metatarsal bone to long arm, and the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head (distal end) of the fifth metatarsal bone with a parallel measuring increment with the long arm of the 90 degree angle.

Arch Apex Dimensi0n-is the dimension taken at right angles between the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads (distal ends) of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to the measuring increments along the long arm, measuring the distance between the points of tangency at the medial and lateral aspects of the first and fifth metatarsal bones (distal ends) with the long arm and a parallel measuring increment with the long arm, then measuring the distance between these two locii along the long arm of the 90 degree angle.

Toe Spaceis the dimension taken along the long arm of the 90 degree angle between the arch size (length) dimension and the allowed space forwardly from the longest toes. Y

Family-refers to all the various arch sizes and arch widths of insoles, lasts and shoes of any particular classification or style.

Medial-refers to the left side of the right foot, and Lateral to the right side of the right foot and vice-versa for the left foot. And all arch dimensions include the soft tissues surrounding the honey framework above the ground.

It is to be noted in FIG. 1 of the appended drawings, the line betweenpoints 7-5 is a foot width at right angles to the-straight foot inner border, and is not a foot nor arch measurement applicable to a last, insole nor shoe in this invention, but is a necessary measuring part of triangular arch measurements, to establish an arch size, arch apex and adequate toe space dimensions as defined and described. It is most noteworthy that the lateral aspect of the head (distal end) of the fifth metatarsal bone, point in the drawings, represents the lateral distal end of the outer longitudinal arch, and is a part of the arch size (length) dimension; and the lateral aspect of the arch width (width) dimension; and is the point of the arch apex dimension. And that this point as well as the designated three arch dimensions are naturally composite Within the overall (heel to toe) foot length. And are applied to and have designated dimensions to the insole pattern, last and shoe in composite arrangement within the overall (heel to toe) footwear length.

The object of this invention is to improve the fitting qualities of shoes to feet.

Another object is to establish an. anatomical arch width dimension of feet.

Another object is to provide an improved grading method of shoe making elements to the various arch widths of feet.

Another object is to provide an improved width grade of insoles, lasts and shoes basic to arch widths of feet, requiring fewer various widths in a size and style.

Another object is to provide an improved method of determining and applying an arch width girth measurement of lasts, and shoes.

Another object is to provide an improved arch width grade to families of insole patterns, lasts and shoes which is in composite arrangement with a constant arch apex dimension within the heel to toe footwear lengths.

Another object is to provide the method of establishing an improved arch width grade applicable to shoe making elements which is in composite arrangement with the arch size (length) dimensions within the overall (heel to toe) footwear length and having various designated arch size and arch width dimensions.

Another object is to provide an improved method of determining and applying an arch waist girth measurement to lasts and shoes.

Other objects and advantages are apparent to those skilled in the art, upon reading this description and study of the appended drawings: FIG. 1 is a diagram of an insole pattern or could as well be a last, or shoe or foot, positioned and measured in accordance with this invention, in an angle of 90 degrees having related linear measuring increments, and showing the manner of locating and measuring the respective arch dimensions of feet and adequate toe space, more particularly an arch width dimension between the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads of the first and fifth metatarsal bones at points 2-5 for applying the improved linear arch width grade to insoles lasts and shoes, basic to the various arch width dimensions of feet, and where an arch width girth posi- 'tion and direction is taken and applied for lasts between points 2-5, and an established arch apex dimension between points 2-5; 5-7; 7-2 and an arch size (length) dimension between points 2-5; 5-7; 2-7-S, positioned lengthwise compositely with the arch width, and adequate toe space between points 2-5; 3, and an arch waist girth taken and applied at the mid-length points of the shafts of the first and fifth metatarsal bones, and a manner of designating shoe dimensions to feet.

FIG. 2 is a diagram of periferal outlines of a small arch size, narrow arch width insole superposed on a larger size, wider arch width insole in the same family, equally positioned at their respective inner arch width and arch size at point 2, showing the arch width grade between the narrow and wider arch width periferies at point 5 and 5' of their arch width, and also shows an established arch apex dimension taken between points 2-5; 5-7; 7-2 which is constant in both arch sizes and arch widths in the family of insoles, lasts and shoes, for the various arch widths of feet, for shoes regardless of classifications or style and the difierence in arch width angularity at point 2 to their respective periferies at points 5-5', between the two different widths and archsizes, having a constant arch apex dimension in the family, and a fractional extension factor applied to ,width forepart and size in a family to maintain a style and shoe proportion with adequate toe space and appropriate heel shape, and the symbols at the medial aspect is a manner of designating the arch size, arch width and arch apexity of an insole, last or shoe relative to a foot linearly, or could be designated conventionally with the additional third or arch apex dimension or alphabetically or combined numerically in fractions of inches or both for selections of shoes in shoe fitting to feet and also illustrates that the respective three arch dimensions are in composite arrangement Within the heel to toe footwear length, and can be designated and correlated with the designated three composite arch dimensions of feet within the overall (heel or toe) foot length.

FIG. 3 illustrates the adaptability of the three arch dimensions to a different larger arch size, wider arch width insole, last or shoe of a dilferent style, than as shown in FIG. 1 and 2". FIG. 3 shows that the improved arch width grade is applied to four insole patterns, or could as well be a last or shoe, along their established arch width lines indiced 4; 4; 4"; 4" between the widths 2-5; 2-5 with an arch apex dimension along line 7-5; 7", and that the size is conventionally designated a 6, of an AB-CD width, with the additional arch apex dimension designated as 1 to each width.

The basic improvement of the present invention is establishing by X-ray foot measurements an arch width dimension, taken between the medial and lateral aspects at the sides of the heads of the first and fifth metatarsal bones of the foots arches, applying an arch width dimension to a last, and providing an improved accurate linear arch width grade to families of insoles, lasts and shoes for the various arch width dimensions of feet, also that the arch width girth of lasts is taken and applied in the same position and direction of the arch width of lasts, represented at points 2-5 of the appended drawings, on the insole pattern, and a new position and direction of taking and applying the arch waist girth measurement at the mid-length positions of the shafts of the first and fifth metatarsal bones of the arches, so that shoes made on the lasts will coincide substantially with the various arch width dimensions and girth measurements of feet.

The first improvement for improved shoe fitting qualities to feet, relating to the present invention is application Ser. No. 399,490, filed Dec. 21, 1953, now issued as Patent No. 2,835,908 on May 27, 1958 which illustrates and describes from my X-ray foot measurements the natural triangular shape of feet and the new recession arch dimension," herein termed the arch apex dimension, easily applied to insoles, lasts and shoes, which improves the width fitting of shoes to where the width of feet may be within the overall foot length, and its particular advantage that an arch apexity preferably remains constant in all members of families of shoes, lasts and insoles regardless of style and is designated additionally to the arch size and width measurements as a third dimension of shoes in shoe fitting. FIG. 1 of the present invention illustrates it on the insole pattern between points 2-5; 5-7; 7-2, and in accordance with the present invention for improved width grade to the various arch widths of feet, it is in composite arrangement united as a constant archdimension with the arch width and arch size dimensions, and as shown in FIG. 2 and FIG. 3. The second improvement for shoe fitting qualities to feet relating to the present invention is disclosed in application Ser. No. 689,728, filed Oct. 11, 1957, now issued as Patent No. 2,928,110 on March 15, 1960, of application Ser. No. 399,490 now issued as Patent No. 2,835,908 on May 27, 1958 illustraten a es ihg and describing the establishing of an arch size (length) diinension of feet and an improved method of grading and sizing families of insoles, lasts and shoes thereto, with adequate toe space, illustrated in FIG. 1 of the drawings between points 2-5; 5-7; 2-7-S, and the arch apexity, and the arch apexity, and illustrates that the arch width dimension of this invention at points 2-5 is lengthwise of insoles, lasts and shoes in composite arrangement with the position of the various arch sizes within the overall (heel to toe) length of insoles, lasts and shoes and widthwise graded thereto.

Consequently this present invention contemplates the ultimate improvement of shoe fitting qualities to feet, by the composite arrangement of the three improved features applied to shoe making elements as a single unit for the shape, sizing, and grading and fitting of footwear basic to arch sizes, arch widths, arch apexity, accurate girth measurements at the arch width and arch waist, adequate toe space of feet and an appropriate heel conformity for all classifications and styles of shoes, conventionally made or molded methods using synthetic materials. The foot must be recognized as a whole, and a specialized whole functioning unit anatomically, and the respective arch dimensions not separated nor segregated from the whole; and footwear must likewise be constructed and fitted as a whole functioning unit; although each of these new features is a definite improvement in the art. Having families of shoes so constructed and with designated arch sizes, arch widths and a constant arch apex dimension indicated thereon linearly in fractions of inches or numerically or conventionally as classified and with feet similarly measured and designated, the critical fitting dimensions of shoes are co-ordinated to coincide substantially with feet, and the art of shoe fitting is more accurate and facilated than hitherto accomplished in the art.

Certain methods of making footwear require no insole pattern, so the shoe last becomes the most important shoe making element for proper fitting features to feet. However in the prior art, after a last model is made for subsequent grading, the insole pattern is made to the exact proportions and measurements of the last bottom contour, which has only the two fitting measurements of sizes (-heel to toe length) and a width, as do lasts and shoes. The shoe insole pattern is a most important shoe making element, because the shoe upper material is 'fas tened to it; therefore the principal factor for the fittability of a shoe to a foot. In accordance with this invention a model shoe insole pattern shall first be made having the three arch dimensions and adequate toe space, of a proper material for repeated usage, whereby a last model maker will have a templet to determine where the three arch dimensions are to be positioned to the last bottom and with adequate toe space for more accuracy.

Another object of this invention is providing an improved more accurate method of sizing and grading footwear sizes basic to the inner longitudinal arch dimensions of feet, whereby no half sizes are needed nor required, to facilitate shoe fitting, as well as economizing of all required shoe making materials.

This present invention and my issued Patents No. 2,835,908 and No. 2,928,110 on May 27, 1958 and March 15, 1960 respectively, in FIGS. 1 show the manner of X-ray measuring feet positioned in a 90 degree angle with related measuring increments to determine and delimit the natural triangular shapes of feet, which is dictated by the arches. Thereby, it is simple to measure within the overall (heel to toe) foot lengths, the various dimensions of the inner longitudinal arches of feet, between the rear curve of the heel to the medial aspect at the side of the head (distal end) of the first metatarsal bone. And provide an optional linear or metric whole size grading increment, such as inch, between the sizes of footwear, basic to the various inner longitudinal arch dimensions of feet; which omits the use of half sizes and also economizes (an all shoe making materials, facilitating and making shoe girth theory as of the prior art. My X-ray measurements" of feet reveal that in different groups of feet of the same nominal overall (heel to toe) foot lengths, the length measurements of the inner longitudinal arches vary cone. siderably in those groups. My issued patents point out the faults of the two theories of the prior art in the grading, making and fitting of shoes to fit feet. With no recognition of foot triangularity, and not providing for any one of the three essential arch measurements for proper fitting to feet. In conventional grading of shoes there are three sizes per linear inch; with 6 half sizes whereby the heel to inner ball increment is 34 inch be tween half sizes. And the V3 inch increment is applied to the overall (heel to toe) last length and shoes, and fitted accordingly; with no consideration whatsoever of any of the three arch measurements. Obviously there is no relationship nor dependency with the prior art theories and this improved method of sizing and grading footwear basic to the inner longitudinal arch dimensions of feet. Also a new standard is established between foot and shoe sizes which is easily understood, for applied methods of shoe fitting to feet, basic to the inner longitudinal arches. Whereby, shoes are now designated for sizes in whole sizes only. And so that all mens shoe size 8s (for example), regardless of width, will have the same length (e.g. 7%; inches); and all womens shoe size 6s, regardless of width, (for example) will have the same length (e.g. 6%; inches); with smaller and larger sizes varying by whole sizes only by the optional inch increment between sizes, which can be designated to shoe classification for style purposes, or the smallest designated a size 1, and the largest a size 12 or 28 for an inner longitudinal arch dimension of approximately 8% inches of even 9 inches. Thus, overall length is not considered in sizing, grading nor fitting; and the toes are easily measured, forwardly from the inner longitudinal arch distance to allow adequate toe space allowance for fitting.

Another feature of this invention is a reduced number of required various widths in a family of shoes as well as for a size, than as required by the conventional theory of girths. X-r-ay measurements of adult small and large feet reveal the linear widths vary as much as 10/8 inch from narrow to wide; and particularly that in groups of the same nominal heel to toe length the widths vary inch as measured along line 7-5; and the arch apexity varies inch in a group, with abnormalities excepted. Childrens feet by tracing the widths at 6 years of age to adult X-ray mesurements range between 2% to 4% inches; and childrens arch apexity at that age group varies inch. It is feasible to provide for a childs learning to walk shoes starting at 2 inches arch wide and arch apexity of /2 inch, and an arch size starting at 3 inches. The exceptionally wide adult foot may require a shoe of 4% inches arch width. So that 20 various arch widths of shoes between the two natural extremes are appropriate; whereby there is a reduction in total numbers of various widths of shoes of approximately 50%, depending upon styles and the ratio of girths to sizes as conventionally dictated. It is recognized that a long arch size, narrow arch width foot requires more various widths be graded for fitting than other types of feet, of varying types, such as inflare, outflare; everted and/or pronated; high and low arches flat foot etc.; therefore the improved arch width grade is not confined to any specific number of various arch widths per size, but is a ratio of 8 various arch width grade per one inch variation of arch widths of feet; whereas the prior art ratio is 16 widths per one inch variation in foot widths, as determined, by the girth theory relative to and based on the /3 inch size theory.

The arch width measured along line 4 as in FIG. 1 of the drawings is finitely greater than a foot width measured along line 7-5. For example, with an inch variation in foot widths of 3; 3%; and 4 inches wide and with a constant arch apexity of one inch the arch widths between points 2-5 (line 4) are and inch longer respectively; so that /8 inch grade between the various arch widths with or without a one inch arch apexity is appropriate. Therefore the provided linear arch width grade applicable to shoe making elements can be A; inch between the various widths for families of shoes, so that only 4 different widths may be required for a size; or a reduction of 50% approximately of that dictated in the prior art, depending on the style or foot type as hereinbefore mentioned. The advantage and improvement of shoe adaptability to feet by the inch increment between the various widths per size being that when an arch width falls between two V measuring lines (the increment for arch widths shall be A3 inch), the foot having an arch apex dimension greater than one inch can be comfortably fitted to the narrower width increment, and the foot with the lesser apexity can be fitted to the wider increment. Also to be noted, that measuring a foot along the line of arch width between points 2-5, with a constant arch apexity taken between points 2-7, along line 7-5; 7-5 as of FIG. 3 of one inch makes it possible to reduce the number of conventional width variations by about A, without changing the incremental dilference between width A and B; Band C etc., as in the prior art. For if width as conventionally measured is increased only increases arch width line 2-5 as of this invention by about 7 to 8%, depending upon the obliquity between the peripheries as positioned conventionally, so there is less finite difference between the narrowest and widest widths (in a determined size) when measured according to this invention, than when measured in the conventional manner.

Another advantage in this invention is determining the natural anatomical location where the arch waist girth is applied for the mid-part area, of lasts and shoes. 'In accordance with this invention, it is located between the mid-length points of the shafts of the first and fifth metatarsal bones, with the direction obliquity heelward from the medial aspect of the foot. It is slightly variable to being parallel with the applied constant arch apex dindension in shoes, because of natural anatomical variations of these two bones. And when so taken and applied to lasts it is also of greater finite measurement than as conventionally taken and determined. Hitherto the last model maker judges one inch or a thumbs breadth heelvvardly from wherever he has positioned the area called the inner Ball; which assumes the length of these two bones is two inches long, which anatomically are always not so. And it is recognized that the improved arch width grade is considered in width fitting at the new area of waist girth, as well as at the heel and toe areas.

7 For a more detailed description of this invention and its composite arrangement with graded arch sizes and "constant arch apex dimension, reference is made to the appended drawings in which FIG. 1 illustrates: An insole pattern suflixed 10, or could as well be a last, shoe or foot, positioned in a 90 degree angle HVS so that the rear curve of the heel is tangent with SM at point 1, and the medial border of the foot at the side of the heel and side of the head of the first metatarsal bone are tangent with the long arm at point 6 and 2; point 2 is in relation to a measuring increment suffixed V at right angles along the long arm, and point 5 represents the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone, in relation to a parallel measuring increment with HS, suffixed V. Line suflixed 4 represents the position and direction establishing an arch width dimension of a foot between points 2-5, applicable to insoles, lasts and shoes, and between these points 2-5 arch width grade is applied with a ratio of 8 various arch widths per inch, or 12.50% grade between the various arch widths of feet for families {of insoles, lasts and shoes, and at points 2-5 the position and direction of the arch width girth measurement is taken and applied to families of lasts and shoes. For ex- 8 l ample, the insole pattern 10 the arch width falls between the 2% and the 2% inch V increments; the next wider width grade is between the 2% and 3 inch increments, the next narrower would be between the 2% and 2% inch increments. Also is shown an arch size dimension established between points 2-5; 5-7; 2-7-S, and it is of particular note that the arch width grade at points 2-5 is in composite arrangement lengthwise where the distal end of the arch size is graded within the overall length. Also is shown between points 2-5; 57;72 the arch apex dimension composite with the arch width grade applied between points 2-5 and the arch apexity is preferably held constant with the arch width dimension. Also is shown adequate toe space at points 2-5; 3 and that a fraction extension factor is applied to the forepart to families of insoles, lasts and shoes to maintain proportions in grading widths as well as sizes. And line suffixed N represents an approximate position and direction where the arch waist girth measurement is established and applied; and point sufiixed B illustrates one manner of designating numerically and fractionally the various arch sizes, arch widths and apex dimensions of footwear to feet or could as well be conventionally designated with the third or arch apex dimension symbol. And the V and V measuring increments could extend from 2 to 15 inches and 2 to 5 inches respectively, than as sighted.

FIG. 2 illustrates a small narrow insole pattern superposed on a larger Wider insole suffiXed 10 and 10' in the same family, equally positioned at their respective inner arch size and arch width at point 2; line 4 and 4' are the arch width lines to show the position and direction of the arch width grade between points 2-5 and 2-5', the wider; and the constancy of arch apexity between poin-ts 2-7 along line 7-5 and the different angularity between the two widths in the family at points 5 and 5 at their lateral peripheries from point 2; and also shows that the provided arch width grade is in composite arrangement with the various arch sizes and arch apexity in families of insoles, lasts and shoes as shown in FIG. 1; and also shows the position and direction for applying the arch width girth measurements for the various sizes and widths to lasts and shoes; and line sufiixed N show the approximate position and direction of applying the arch waist girth of lasts and shoes in the various sizes and widths. Those skilled in the art will readily understand the relationship of any other widths and sizes not shown in families of insoles, lasts and shoes.

FIG. 3 shows the adaptability of the three arch dimensions applied in composite arrangement within the heel to toe length of an insole pattern, last or shoe of a different arch size; arch width having an arch apex dimension and style, than as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 of the accompanying drawings. And illustrates the arch width grade applied to an arch size 6 insole pattern or could as well be a last or shoe, indiced 40; 40'; 40; 40', positioned in a degree angle HVS and conventionally designated with the three arch dimensions as a 6A-l; 6B-1; 60-1; 6D-1; the numerals 6 being the arch size (length); the letters the arch widths; and the 1 for the third or arch apex dimension; or could as well be designated in fractions of inches or metrically, within the overall (heel to toe) footwear length and are in composite arrangement, the 6A-1 and 6D-l being the narrower and wider respectively or could as well show narrower and wider arch widths with the ratio of A; inch between the various arch widths per arch size insole, last or shoe. The arch size is shown and determined between points 2-5; 5-7; 2-7-V, the narrower, and the arch apex dimension is determined between points 2-5; 5-7-7-2 and preferably remains as a constant arch dimension as determined between points 2-7 and along line 7-5 for the various arch widths per arch size, with point 2 as a stationary point at the inner arch length within the overall (heel to toe) length, and illustrates 9 the various arch width lines per size 4; 4; 4"; 4" between points 2-5; 2-5; 2- 2-5, and their different angles between points 2 and 5'; 5"; 5" along line 7-5 as the arch widths vary per size between their respective peripheral arch width points of the first and fifth metatarsal heads of the inner and outer longitudinal arches; and that the respective arch Widths and arch width grade is applied in composite arrangement with the distal end of the arch size dimension at points 2-5; and is also in composite arrangement with the preferred constant arch apex dimension between points 2-5; 5-7; 7-2 and that all three arch dimensions are within the overall (heel to toe) footwear length, and whose designated three arch dimensions are to be correlated with the three determined and designated arch dimensions of feet and provide adequate toe space. Y i In the drawings a womans insole pattern is shown, it will be understood the same principles may be applied to other classifications, styles and methods of making shoes, in proportioning, sizing, grading and fitting, such as childrens boys, girls, youths, mens etc. Due to body growth it may be desirable to have smaller proportions without changing the basic principles; for example, among adult feet there are more feet with an arch apexity of 1% inch than of one inch, so the greater apexity may be used. In the adopted chart of last measurements shows an instep measurement proportioned to sizes and widths which is determined by the tape, this measurement therefore is recognized, although I visualize an improvement to it which can be also done by certain foot X-ray measurements and special technic.

The importance of a constant arch apex dmension composite as determined between points 2-7 and along line 7-5 with the width grade particularly, is emphasized by the fact the last lathe machine operates on a panagraphic principle. When lasts are turned in the grading process from small to large sizes or vice-verso. and new models used therewith, at whatever the original distance heelwardly there may be between the locations lengthwise of the inner and outer width perifen'es of the lasts-lengths, as the sizes increase from a small to large there is a change of inch length position in the location of the outer width pen'fery, and will be greater depending upon the extent of lateral style curvature and the range of sizes. Which fact alters the shoe fitting accuracy as to where the shoe width may be in a size to where the width of a foot may be; and even with improved last machinery it will vary, although there may be a 3% improvement in last machinery. Whereas in accordance with this invention of improved arch width grade, it is of particular advantage to hold the distance between points 2-7 and along line 7-5 as a constant arch apex dimension in all sizes and widths, and the accuracy and improvement to fit the arch width is maintained substantially with the arch widths of feet, than hitherto accomplished.

This invention is not concerned with heel heights nor of the toe style, only insofar as there is adequate toe space and the selected heel contour be appropriate to feet without harm. The only consideration relative to girth measurements is that such provide adequate vertical depth position and direction for the metatarsal heads and toes and that the waist girth is of correct snugness; for it is recognized that girth measurements as of the prior art as taken and applied are no standard to provide for arch widths. It is contemplated that shoes will be made by conventional methods and materials but it is foreseen that new materials and substances may be chemically made and molding and adhering methods developed that may require certain changes in footwear appearance, lasts and insoles and which can be utilized with any one or all combined of my improvements hereinbefore mentioned, although not herein described, without changing the basic principles.

While the invention specifically describes a womens insole pattern and shoe, it is to be distinctly understood i0 I that the contour of the toe part, the heel part and height and the shank may be subject to wide variations of last and shoe construction, or new methods developed such as injection molding and adhesives, without affecting the principles of the present invention or results thereby acf complished for all other classifications of shoes. Consequently, it is to be distinctly understood that such modifications or variations of the embodiment hereinbefore de: scribed as may present themselves to those schooled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention, and its composite arrangement with my prior im-, provements of triangular shape, sizing and grading principles for the ultimate result of improved fitting qualities and new standard, although not specifically described herein, contemplated by and within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is: 1

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes on a series of lasts of varying arch widths from a last on which the following points have been established; 1) the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the medial foot border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, draw ing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to establish an arch width dimen sion of a foot, providing a last having said arch width dimension and forming from the selected last a series of lasts of varying arch widths, constructing a series of shoes on said lasts which vary in arch widths, and designating the widths of each member of the series of shoes by the distance between said tangent points.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing in sole patterns of varying arch widths from an insole on which the following points have been established, (1} the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone with a fine parallel with the foot medial border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line; drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to establish an arch width dimension of a foot between said 1st and 2nd parallel lines, drawing an extending 2nd line at a right angle with the first parallel line thru the 2nd tangent point, providing an insole pattern having said arch Width dimension between said points, forming a series of insole patterns of varying arch widths from the selected insole pattern whereby said 1st point remains positionally constant and the 2nd points vary positionally from the 1st point along said 2nd extending line and designating the arch Widths in the series by the distance between said constant 1st point and the varying 2nd points along said 2nd extending line.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing a series of insole patterns of varm'ng arch widths from an insole pattern on which the following points have been established, (1) the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal with a line parallel with the medial foot border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to establish an arch width dimension of a foot, providing an insole pattern having said arch width dimension and forming from the selected insole pattern a series of insole patterns of varying arch widths and designating the arch widths of each member of the series of insole patterns by the distance between said tangent points.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing a series of lasts of varying arch widths from a last on which the following points have been established, (1)

the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the'head of the first metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the medial foot border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, drawing a line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to establish an arch width dimension of a foot, providing a last having said arch width dimension and forming from the selected last a series of lasts of varying arch widths and designating the arch widths of each member of the series of lasts by the distance between said tangent points.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes on a series of lasts of varying arch widths and varying arch width angularity from a last on which the following points have been established, (1) the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head or the first metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the medial toot border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, drawing an extending line through the 2nd tangent point at a right angle to said lst and 2nd parallel lines, drawing a 2nd line between the points of tangency of the first of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to said right angle line to establish an arch width dimension of afoot angulated with said parallel tangent lines, pro-viding a last having said arch width dimension and said angulation, forming from the selected last a series of lasts varying in arch widths and varying angularity between said 1st and 2nd tangent points along said right angle line, constructing a series of shoes on said lasts which vary in arch widths and arch width angularity and designating the widths of each member of the series of shoes by the distance between said tangent points.

' 6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing insole patterns of varying arch Widths and varying arch width angularity from an insole pattern on which the following points have been established, (1) the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the medial foot border, (2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, drawing an extending line through the 2nd tangent point at a right angle to said lst and 2nd parallel lines, drawing a 2nd line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to said right angle line to establish an arch width dimension of a foot angulated with said parallel tangent lines, providing an insole pattern having said arch width dimension and said angularity, forming from the selected insole pattern a series of insole patterns of varying arch widths and varying angularity between said 1st and 2nd tangent points along said right angle line, and designating the arch Widths of each member of the series of insole patterns by the distance between said tangent points.

7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing lasts of varying arch widths and arch width angularity from a last on which the following points have been established, (1) the point of tangency at the medial aspect at the side of the head of the first metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the medial foot border, 2) the point of tangency at the lateral aspect at the side of the head of the fifth metatarsal bone with a line parallel with the first line, drawing an extending line through the 2nd tangent point at a right angle to said lst and 2nd parallel lines, drawing a 2nd line between the points of tangency of the first and fifth metatarsal bones to said right angle line to establish an arch width dimension of a foot angulated with said parallel tangent lines, providing a last having said arch width dimension and said angularity, forming from the selected last a series of lasts varying in arch widths and varying in arch width angularity between said lst and 2nd tangent points along said right angle line, and designating the arch widths of each member of the series of lasts by the distance between said tangent points.

References Cited in'the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

